Archive for the Photoshop Tutorial Category

Instagram in Irfanview

Posted in Image Post, Photoshop Tutorial, Tip or Trick Post with tags , , , , , , , , , , on April 6, 2012 by Art of Photography

I have blogged before about a great free program for image processing with the unusual name of Irfanview. This is, in my opinion, the best image manipulation program you can use until you step up to Photoshop (or possibly GIMP). Today’s blog is about using Irfanview to re-create some classic film and dark-room trick photo effects.
These settings can only be used in Irfanview ( but do not require the extra plug-ins package.
Ready to go!?!
With an image loaded into Irfanview, type a capital G (shift + G) or go to Image >> color corrections … in the menu options. This opens up a dialog with a before and after of your current image. On the left side you will find controls for Brightness and Color balance (Red/Green/Blue). The right side has controls for Contrast, Gamma, and Saturation. We will modify six (6) of these controls (I never touch Brightness, Gamma is way much better).
Note that these settings are not absolutes and you can always tweak them depending on the picture they are being applied to. They are a starting point however I recommend you do apply all the settings for the effect before you start tweaking.
The format for the filter instructions is ; Red, Green, Blue, Contrast, Gamma, Saturation.

Original Image

70’s; -5, 5, -50, 10, 1.1, 50

Chrome; -5, -20, 0, 75, 1.1, -25

Polaroid; 25, 30, 5, 0, 1.1, 0

C-41; 15, 30, 80, 0, .8, 25

CrossProcess; 35, 35, -50, 40, .8, -75

RedScale; 65, 30, -50, -10, .8, -50

Lomish; 35, 10, -60, 75, .75, -100

SkipBleach; 70, 60, 115, 10, .45, -125

Brownie; 30, 5, 100, 0, .9, 35

Chrome is meant to emulate KodaChrome color reversal film
C-41 relates to ‘normal’ color film processing (the main Kodak chemical is named C-41)
Cross Process, Red Scale and Skip Bleach are based on deliberate chemical misapplication techniques.
Brownie is based on 126 films.
70’s is based on time eroded prints.
Polaroid is emulating Polaroid’s emulsion.
Lomish incorporates some of the elements found in the output of the cheap Russian Lomo cameras.

Hope you find these useful and that you have a good time playing with them. Let me know if you run into problems or don’t understand something I wrote.


Quick Picture Treatment

Posted in Image Post, Photoshop Tutorial with tags , , , , , , on February 19, 2012 by Art of Photography

As some of you know, I advocate the use of Irfanview (free image manipulation program). I use it for quick jobs, visual navigation, preview, and batch conversions. It is quicker and easier to use than Lightroom (my opinion), very stable, and easy to learn. I also recommend it when a photographer is first starting with image processing programs.

One of the most common uses of photo processing software is modifying an image to bring forth a feeling or mood. This is the basis of the wildly popular Instagram. Instagram has taken the world by storm because of how easy it is in only a few clicks, to emotionally modify an otherwise well color-balanced picture. However, quick fixes are always limited and Photoshop professional can create much more ‘tuned’ modification that better suit the subject of the composition.

My favorite ‘instant’ modification is something that can be done very easily in Irfanview. If you are just starting out, this will also be a great little introduction to what this amazing program can do.

Assuming you have Irfanview already downloaded and installed on your computer, open an image, any image, in the program

Now shift + G to bring up the color correction dialog box (or in the menu; Image >> Color Corrections)


See the section for Color Balance in the lower left part of the interface? Enter these settings:
For R (Red); 20
For G (Green); -6
For B (Blue); -40


These setting work great. You could call them golden but they work differently for different images.





A quick Google search will bring you to a site that downloads Irfanview. My favorite is (CNet): Irfanview from

You can use the settings ‘as is’ but I am guessing that now you know how they work, you will try many (many) variations. Get the hang of tools on the right hand side and your pictures will start to really sing. BTW – these color settings applied to a B&W picture will create a Sepia tone!

Have FUN
(Note: I don’t make nothing from nothing on this program or website. There is no affiliation, its just stuff I use).

Working with a Tablet

Posted in Image Post, Photoshop Tutorial with tags , , , , , on January 29, 2012 by Art of Photography

Here is an image with a hand drawn frame.

This was fairly easy to make in Photoshop if you have a tablet.
1. Open a new file to your desired size (I chose 4″ wide and 6″ tall at 240 dpi and CMYK mode because I plan to use these as templates for portraits that will be printed out).
2. Create a new layer and draw your frame (here is where the tablet really helps).
3. Select the magic wand and click in the center of your frame, then inverse. Click with the ALT/OPTION key down to deselect the outer edge and any space between the drawn frame.
4. Create a new layer and fill it with white
5. Back on the Drawn Frame layer, clear the selection and select just the center. Create a new layer and fill with black. [Final layers order top to bottom is Frame, Black-Layer, White-Layer, Background]
Save here if you want this to be a template.
Now bring in any image you want (adjust and resize as needed). Put it just above the Black Layer. Then hold down the ALT/OPTION key and mouse to the line between the image layer and Black layer (the icon will change). Click and this will clip the image to the black center.
Fill the White Layer with the frame color desired, Fill the background if you wish.
All done

The Ones You Love

Posted in Image Post, Photoshop Tutorial with tags , , , , , on January 6, 2012 by Art of Photography

Without a doubt, our favorite model is Mrs Andrews. This *61* year old woman continues to ‘bring it’ in grace, love, and beauty. Here is a recent image processed as a high key poster. A little Photoshop fun. To learn more about the neon text, we recommend ICEFLOWSTUDIOS.COM Click on the image to see a full web version on our website.

Photoshop CS3 CS4 CS5 Easy B&W Conversion

Posted in Photoshop Tutorial, Tip or Trick Post with tags , , , on November 20, 2011 by Art of Photography

CS4 & CS5 make converting images to B&W very easy with the Black and White Adjustment layer. And of course, any editor that has a Channel Mixer can do an excellent job of converting. But here is the way that I prefer for Photoshop because of how it saves tonal range.

1. Create a white fill layer UNDER the target image
2. Change the blend mode of the TARGET LAYER to Luminosity

That’s it!

You can play with masks, different fill colors etc but most of the time I am satisfied with the initial results.
Have fun and !Go Pack Go!

B&W with borders

Tutorial – A Custom Photoshop Border

Posted in Image Post, Photoshop Tutorial, Tip or Trick Post with tags , , on November 13, 2011 by Art of Photography

Here is a quick tutorial on making a custom border embellishment.

Custom Border

Open your image in Photoshop (this was done in CS5)
1. Open Custom Shape tool (under Rectangle Tool) >> click the down arrow next to the current shape preview. In the menu box that opens, click the little button in the upper right corner (the one with the triangle that points right). You are going to be adding a shape group so click on Ornaments and use the Append button to add the shapes. Then find the Leaf Ornament 2 shape and click on it. Click the color square and pick #f4e2e2.
2. This is the art part. Draw a box (stretch the shape) to make a usable border symbol. For the example image in this post, I used 2 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ (I had rulers turned on to see this). For the size and pixel density of this image, I figured 4 symbols per long side.
3. Open Layer Styles for this layer (one shortcut is to double click the layer in the layer panel). Here are the settings to use
a. Drop Shadow – Multiply, Black, 75%, 30º, 5=0-5
b. Inner Glow – Screen, 50%, 0%, fbf0b9, softer, Edge, 0%, 55px
c. Satin – Multiply, black, 50%, 19º, 11px, 14px
d. Color Overlay – Normal df4b24, 100%
4. Now make copies of the shape layer (shortcut is CTRL/COMMAND + J). For this example, seven (7) more were made. Place as appropriate.
5. I set a 50 px white bar below and above to isolate the symbols
6. A new Fill Layer was added (black) and set to Blend: Overlay. A mask was added to it and the fill inside the white bars was ‘hidden’ (painted with black).


Tutorial: Photoshop CS4/5 Old Skool Treatment

Posted in Photoshop Tutorial with tags , , , , , on October 29, 2011 by Art of Photography

In the days of darkrooms, a photograph was made by projecting light through a negative onto base stock (like Kodak paper). A metal frame was used to keep the paper in place and flat. This frame would block all the light and is why you had borders around the photos you picked up from the store. Professionally done images had crisp clean borders but if you did it at home and were not careful (or had a warped frame) you would get light leaks where the frame met the paper. This was especially true with un-coated papers. Depending on your point of view, this was nice or a problem.

Now-a-days, with direct printing, we do not have that but if you want to enhance your photo old skool-like (or cover up a blurry unusable photograph) this Photoshop tutorial will show you how.

This is an advanced tutorial and assumes basic knowledge of Photoshop. If you want to preserve the color of your (base) photo, do not do the Fill Layer Step. All settings are for the image size and resolution of the example picture. You may have to adjust your own settings based on size &/or resolution of your image files. [Note the final image will not have the little outside white box around it you see in this blog. WordPress is adding that.]

First you need this *.png image to create the uneven inner edge: Png File from Andrea Rascaglia.

1. Open Border_Polaroid_B.png in Photoshop (make sure it is opened as a PNG file, the center must be transparent – layer label should say Layer 0)
2. ‘Place’ the image you want to be framed. Placing it will make it a smart object which is good for the filters.
a. If the image is crisp/clear, apply a 4-5 px gaussian blur (Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur).
b. Add grain (Filter > Texture > Grain:: Try: Intensity = 21, Contrast = 41, Type = Regular).
3. Move your image to the bottom of the layer stack (if the polaroid layer [Layer 0] is a background layer you have a problem because transparency has been lost.)
4. Create a new fill layer above Layer 0 (Make Layer 0 active; Layer > New Fill Layer > Solid Color). Accept default name, set color to H:52° S:6%, B:98%
a. Set the Blend Mode to Color
5. Switch to Layer 0 and bring up blending options (right-click layer > Blending Options)
a. Set stroke color to H:52° S:19% B:96%
b. Set Position to INSIDE
c. Adjust size to cover all areas outside the Target image itself, then click OK. It should now look like the finished product desired.



*These next steps sharpen the picture and create old skool contrast*

d. Duplicate the layer (CTRL/COMMAND + J)
e. Filter > Other > High Pass (set Radius to 1/100 of your image resolution. For my 240 ppi image, I set 2.4)
f. Set blend mode to Vivid Light
g. Merge the two layers
That’s it. You can flatten the image or File > Save for Web & Devices as final use dictates.

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